I've surfed this coast for 40-some years. This winter-spring is by far one of the most memorable for the virtually constant profusion of regular, sizable swell. Seems like every 10-14 days another low pressure system was coiling up into a tight fist while swinging offshore to kick back epic local conditions. Even the water temperature cooperated somewhat, falling only as far down as the mid-forties (degrees Fahrenheit that is). Two winters ago, the ocean water temperature plummeted to 36 degrees, the coldest I can remember here in my lifetime.
What's more, so much of the action is now being recorded in photographs and video and published on the internet. Mickey McCarthy's dogged pursuit of the local action is without peers in my book. I point you to SURFKDH.COM as evidence. Nice work Mick!
For many, many years what happened during the really world class swells was left behind only in the memories of those who were here so long ago: surfers like Don Bennett, Stuart "Panda" Taylor, Scott Busbey, and Jimbo Brothers to name a few of the many who shredded the Outer Banks without fanfare, acclaim, or audience.
The photographic proof pours forth now for all to see. What many of us knew for so long in this spot so far from the more dense surfing population cauldrons of California and Florida, that the Outer Banks juices up real good now, just like it did back then but without the crowds.
We're pointing toward the mid summer doldrums now. I suppose it's a good time to reflect a little on recent swells past. Anticipation will soon build for the tropical storm season looming just ahead. Look out...
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