Chest to shoulder high, glassy bowls wrapped around the head of a riptide offering lefts and rights to good friends who don't know each other's names. This evening I savored these conditions between 5 and 6:30 p.m. mostly with other surfers I didn't even know.
The sun slowly descended behind some wood framed, multi-story, time share type buildings thankfully in silhouette. It was an eternity between sets, maybe even 15+ minutes. This time given let me notice the many colors on the ocean's surface---of course shades of gray, but yellows and greens with a boiling riptide perking wavelets through a wavy, mirrored surface.
I felt cradled in this atmosphere highlighted by the smiles of happy strangers now showing up in wetsuits. How truly wealthy can one soul be to have all this---clean, rideable waves in clean water with others under the same spell of wonder?
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1 comment:
Great description of the perfect end to a beautiful fall day on the Outer Banks.
It was great sharing waves with you.
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