Tranquility in the Swell Window

I sat on the beach today with a dear friend and marveled at the serenity around us. I saw people in kayaks over the wreck at 2nd Street on the outside bar. Three guys were scuba diving there as well all under a bright blue sky. October 4th and the air was warm, not hot. The ocean water a comfortable 71 degrees. Low tide held small waves over the sandbars, a vast contrast to my last post and all that has passed since on this, our piece of Atlantic coast. This marks one week exactly since the last real surf here and the first flat spell since late August.

There's been Hurricane Bill passing offshore. Then Tropical Storm Danny, followed by an unnamed low pressure system, both bringing open lefts---too much to resist for a goofy-footer like me. Many sandbars are tuned up and working their magic. Offshore winds have ruled and shaped it all, and best of all our local friends are owning what is theirs in the water.

A sad passing of our water buddy, Greg Bennett, marked last week. The last time I saw him was surfing at Barnes Street in Nags Head summer before last with many locals and their children in the water. He was the happiest of us all, savoring his day with waves to ride. We all will miss you Greg.

This flat spell, this quiet day on the beach, let me reflect on these things I am so thankful for---to continue being able to surf after 45 years and enjoy this way of living. No amount of riches could ever buy this happiness with these friends.

I'll keep my vigil watching for the next swell, and surely it will come again as it always does. And we will surely play there.